It works great. Don't take much to get em back off. I get at local ACE hardware store   3 rivers and Kustom King also sell it but then got shippingSame here, ACE Hardware carries it If you warm gently on a gas hob a point held on by Araldite (or as I use B&Q's cheap copy) for about 10 seconds you can remove it if you need to. Works just fine. I don't like Ferrule-tite because its brittle and in cold weather heads will come off. Arrow-Fix Screw-In Arrow Tips - Broadhead Adapters, 6-pack. I tried to come up with a gizmo that could cut shallow threads in the shaft taper to hold the glue. Parallel fit, I crimp the shaft with pliers. Sometimes I’ll also cut a shallow spiral along the taper to create a mechanical lock for the glue too.Bohning hot melt or JD Weld epoxy for points, NPV for nocks/fletching.

Bostick or fletching glue for the nocks. Each blister contains one tube of adhesive and one tube of hardener.
I use a file to reduce the shaft and fer-l-tite to glue the pile.

When using tapers I use the taper tool a little at a time, testing the fit as I go; I usually find that I don't need the shaft to go all the way to the bottom of the taper tool. Glue-In Points; Screw-In Points; Screw-In Inserts; Glue-On Points; Glue-On Outserts; Point Weights; Arrow Wraps; Arrow Numbers; Arrow Building & Repair. Ravenwolf, don't recommend the glue sticks that come with glue guns...points will fall off when cold No chance of screwing up hardness. I am just about to assemble some arrows for my son. Perfect for glueing points onto shafts or horn inserts into self-nocks.

Regular hot melt on clean bare wood for the points. Best,Ravenwolf I was guessing araldite would be best for points but probably mistakingly would have used it on the knocks too.If you warm gently on a gas hob a point held on by Araldite (or as I use B&Q's cheap copy) for about 10 seconds you can remove it if you need to. One thing no one seems to mention when gluing on field points, you have to clean the inside of the points of the residual oil used in their manufacture. I use hot melt sticks from Big Jim. Never had either one to fail! Something I've considered doing, but not got round to trying...The other suggestion for parallels is to crimp the ends with pliers to get a ridged effect. Two Tracks Echo 60@27.I also use one of those brushes 3Rivers sells. You’ll want to make sure you’re using a hot melt adhesive with a melting point low enough that it won’t damage the shaft but high enough to keep the point securely attached during the frictional heating caused when the arrow penetrates the target mat. For nocks and fletchings I use HMG.You might want to try the brass screw on taper fit piles glued on with Areldite. A dab of glue on the arrow taper and warm the broadhead while holding it in you hand is all the heat you need, spin on its point to insure its straight and dip in water to cool. Hot melt glue; sometimes called ferrule cement, is the normal adhesive used for mounting points to wooden arrows.


That's the cool thing about the lower heat stick glues.

Ditto on cleaning the tips or heads before gluing! These can be obtained from many traditional suppliers and I would recommend its use. If you don't like cops, next time you need help, call Al SharptonI use the glue sticks from Black Widow as well as the sticks from Big Jim. I ran out and cannot find anymore!! Another vote for the yellow glue sticks. Life Member PBS - Member TBM -Life Member Calif. Big game club - Sponsor Traditional Archery Society For broadheads i only warm up their ferrule, unmount the field point, add a dab of HOT glue right from the stick, then press the warm broadhead on and align. I've assembled many carbon and aluminium arrows for myself, but never worked with wood.I use 2 part epoxy glue on all mine (Wilkos cheap home brand)I use Areldite for the piles and fletching glue for the nocks, attaching to bare wood.

Duco for everything else.

A trick I learned many years ago while making target arrows with glue-in Nibb points. I use just plain old hot glue gun glue too. I had no luck with with Ducco.If your URL is correct, you'll see an image preview here Large images may take a few minutes to appear. Thanks, I just got 6 Zwicky Deltas, glued up using the wife’s hot glue gun. It has a yellowish hue. Charter Member Traditional Archery Society I still have Ferrel tite but use it for quick fixes. I just use regular hot melt glue. Perfect your arrow balance point and tuning with Target Arrow Points including Variable Weight Points.

Choose from the world's largest selection of Glue-In Points at Lancaster Archery Supply. Being heat reversible it allows you to change your points whenever you like. No need for anything "special"Been using regular old hot melt for many years. We prefer the old standby, the alcohol burner. I've had a lot fewer heads stay stuck in trees since I started cleaning them. Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings. Skinny amber glue stick from craft or fabric store. 3 Rivers carries a ferrule cement, that they get from Tom Parsons at Kimsha Archery.

It's a very strong adhesive, which will bond wood to metal. Araldite arrow point glue Araldite is the perfect arrow making glue for gluing arrow points to wood shafts. “Take the good where you find it, be honest with yourself, and let the results be your guide.”Jet Wolverine 69@28, Kramer Autumn 62@27, Jet Leopard 63@28, Howard Hill Wesley Special 57@27, Jet Warthog 69@28. A dab of glue on the arrow taper and warm the broadhead while holding it in you hand is all the heat you need, spin on its point to insure its straight and dip in water to cool. MY ACCOUNT ASK AN EXPERT CART (0 ... Glue-On Field Point Test Kit - 11/32" $9.50. Having the field point in the insert creates just enough air pressure inside to want to push the inserts back out when you let go.

That helps the glue flow, the pile to slide and the air to escape.I only ever use parallel insert piles, the taper tool never seems to match tapered piles.