I don't think that would happen if it's only on the base. Cheers!The advantage of using a small piece of brass (with the aforementioned handle) that the cleaning can be localized to just the affected area & not outside it, which is what may well happen with brass wool or larger tools, because it is hard to apply (for me) just to the affected area, & will perhaps give the area around the ‘spot’ a different patina. I would hate to … If it is brownish or black this will be due to oxidization of the copper which occurs when exposed to air; this a natural phenomenon and is non-destructive. I shoot surplus 7.62×39 and 7.62x54R. I’ve seen so many ruined specimens treated with sandpaper, that I’m on the verge of tears just remebering them…I’m usually (in a worst cases) applying these two methods in a succesion.I use a brass scraper made by flattening the mouth of a large rifle case, such as the .30-06 (it gives you something to hang on to). That one will be very hard to replace. Prefer Silicon sprayThen a careful examination and relube all parts or spay them with Silicon spray. I cleaned off the corrosion with a bronze brush and noticed that underneath the corrosion is what appears to be a cracked or split case … If you know you are shooting corrosive ammo or you aren’t sure because it is surplus from a gun show you’ll need ammonia.

Firing the As for reliability, all of the firearms began the test clean and well lubricated.
I purchased a box of .380 ammo, 2000 rounds for $100.oo The ammo is heavily tarnished or lightly corroded, with the brass looking like the Statue of Liberty before it was cleaned off. None of the other cases in the drawer is affected.What causes this to happen to just one case in a drawer (which incidentally is steel, lined with corrugated cardboard), and what’s the best way of cleaning it off?For such coorosions I usually make use of “rust converter” (as far as I remember orthophosphoric acid). These salts attract water from the air and we all know what happens with water and metal and salt. With the strongest and longest lasting defense against corrosion, our bags offer carefree storage of metal equipment for months or years at a time.Inside our bags, VCI molecules form an invisible coating around the metal contents, deflecting corrosive moisture vapor and Oxygen molecules. Works on steel ammo too, though cheap ammo fans might be interested in this: Wolf AK ammo seems to start rusting no matter what you do to it and these bags will not fix that. You may use a small tampon soaked with it and just wipe out the corroded spot (fortunately not too big in your case) and then wipe out the acid and other remnants with wet cloth. On the outside, our high barrier-film has two missions: lock in the VCI molecules, and keep out corrosion causing elements. Here are a couple of pics of the worst rounds: Think this is safe to shoot?I started cleaning some of the less corroded ammo and thus far no pitting on the brass. I shot some 30-06 that looked like this but it was all over the sides instead of the base. Hmm…I wonder if maybe I could send my rifles through a car wash….I couldn’t begin to tell you how many times I have used Simple Green and hot water to clean weapons during a 22 year career in the US Army Infantry. Paper and cardboards cotain a lot of components harmful for brass. If the sides of these are relatively clean then go for it.This is a community for discussion about ammunition and related topics. Do not scrub back and forth. A Q-Tip with white vinegar works wonders on staining, but must be followed with water to neutralize. Are you using ground water? Once the metal is removed, the VCI molecules dissipate and your object is ready to use again.Bluguard VCI bags reduce the materials and time needed to create a safe storage environment for all of your metal gear and equipment. Awhile back, I came into about 40 rounds of WWI-era (1918) .45 ACP ammo that was so badly corroded it would not chamber.

For some unbeknownst reason, shooters today don’t feel like they should clean their guns. Safe corrosion will occur if the brass has been kept clean and dry. ( IE: Windex ) Beware, they make After you are done shooting your corrosive ammunition for the day, squirt the window cleaner liberally from the chamber down the barrel. Otherwise you will get red copper spots on the cases during time, because acid reminder will continue to etch the brass of the case.I also pull the bullet and dump the powder as Pete mentions. It depends on the primers and whether or not they leave behind salts when fired. For this purpose is better to use neutralizer, for example soda water solution. Without the need to oil, spray, or wrap, you’ll have more time to focus on your next adventures while your metal items await their next use. May be cartridge was damp (I mean something like one drop of water). Then thus treated spot may be pollished with woollen cloth. I take a thermos bottle of very hot water, a funnel, and some rubber hose with me shooting. None of the other cases in the drawer is affected. I make a liquid mixture of 25% Vapor Rust, 25% Ammonia, 30%Baking soda and 20% Alcohol. For precision rifles care must be taken not to mar or damage the barrel crown.Areas of the action where metal moves against metal should be lubricated thoroughly. Later we ran numerous close-in drills from seven to twenty-five yards firing multiple round exercises. The patina was left largely intact when I have tried this on small arms rounds.I have rescued some heavily corroded brass cases using a weak citric acid solution.
Administrator; Trade Count: Senior Member; Posts: 23906; Gender: Re: Corrosion on old bullets « Reply #1 on: June 21, 2020, 02:10:46 AM » Is the corrosion on the bullet or brass case?

You're more likely to damage the rifle by scraping it to remove all traces of fouling than that fouling is going to cause any corrosion…